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If you travel along the Lycian coast, you may one day wander past a tree with the strangest warm smell in early spring. In summer, it hangs heavy with clusters of green bean-like pods. By autumn those same pods have turned into wrinkled brown things that look like dried bananas and feel almost as hard as wood. This is the carob tree. Most travellers know carob only from the health food aisle of the supermarket, somewhere between cocoa substitutes and products that promise a h